Thursday, August 28, 2008

Summer Vacation (5th in series)




Day 5 Tuesday August 26, 2008

We awoke and reported the Seven Seas dining room for breakfast, only to receive another poor table assignment. However the service improved over our prior two meals. I ordered a corn beef hash to accompany my sunny side pan-fried eggs for breakfast, but instead wounded up with country style potatoes, home fries and bacon.

Following breakfast we headed ashore. Ryan had forgotten to apply sunscreen to his feet and had sunburned them on deck during the arrival in Bermuda. So the first stop in town was to report to a local apothecary (Roberstons) to purchase some solarcane and aloe gel to treat it. While I applied the salves to the tender areas, Cathy & Gary proceeded to the visitor centre and procured a set of six local transit passes ($12 per) for our group. The transit passes proved to be an excellent value.

Our passes in hand, we boarded the Hamilton bound bus and headed out to the visit some scenic caves at bailey’s cove-- about 7 kms from St. George. The bus route took us through the airport and was about 20 minutes. The two caves (the crystal and fantasy caves) are located on private land and were discovered around the turn of the century. Although they were originally competitors, promoted by private operators, they are now jointly marketed and you have the option of purchasing tickets to attend either one or both. We doubled up, paying a total admission for six of $138 (there was no youth rate, just a discount rate for children). Both caves are worth seeing, although our preference was the Fantasy cave (which requires ascending / descending a steeper climb down a set of 80 or so steep steps). The Crystal caves are actually larger and have more steps, but the grade is more gradual. The crystal caves also feature more water that is traversed by way of a series of floating paths.

Tour groups (that vary in size but averaged around 30 people when we were there) enter the caves, accompanied by a guide about every 15 minutes. The caves are illuminated by artificial lighting but are still fairly dimly light. The tour guides draw your attention to unusual stalagmite and stalactite formations that bear resemblance to other objects (food, figures and animals). The guides also describe the geographic forces that lead to cave formation and the history if the caves (apparently they were discovered by two boys looking for a missing cricket ball). The caves are inter-linked by water and the connections are accessible to scuba divers.

Following our cave tours, we crossed the road from the park in which the caves are located to have lunch on the upper porch of the swizzel inn. The porch is covered and offered good shade from the hot mid-day sun. Service was prompt and friendly (the wait staff offered to take a group photo and provided directions / bus rising and sightseeing tips) . The children ordered fruit smoothies (strawberry banana and mango) and the adults ordered a pitcher of Swizzel rum (the smoothies actually cost more (at $11.95 each, including a souvenir glass). To each we ordered a series of apps (fries, rings, skins, garlic-cheese bread, mozzarella sticks and nachos) which were all good, although the onion rings were the highlight. The salsa sauce that they were served with was also notable. Total tab for the meal was $117.15, including a mandatory 15% service charge (applied for a group of 5 or more)

Following our lunch we boarded a bus back to St. Georges. Upon arrival back in town we noted that The Majesty’s sister ship, the Dream (which sails out of Boston) had joined us in port (which explained the Red Sox flag flying at the Swizzel Inn earlier.) The Dream is a similar sized ship to the Majesty but has had a new centre section added. Together the Dream and majesty are the smallest / oldest vessels in the Norwegian fleet. After exiting the bus we found ourselves with barely15 minutes to spare to catch the last ferry to Hamilton to the leave the docks bound for Hamilton. The ferry had two levels… an enclosed air conditioned lower level and an open level above that was shaded to the rear and open to the sun to the front. We selected seating on the upper deck. The kids sat in the shade while the adults selected the sun. It was extremely hot in the sun until the ship got on its way and the breeze hit the deck. In all the passage to Hamilton took about 40 minutes. The public ferry is extremely clean and comfortable, offering a very inexpensive alternative to more expensive boat excursions for visitors seeking to explore the shoreline by water.

Upon arrival at the port in Hamilton, we were greeted by the very large RCI cruiseship Explorer of the Seas which was on its last day in port (from New York). There were passengers from all three cruiseships on board the ferry so there was a lot of comparing notes on the pros and cons of the various lines / ships going on. After a brief walk among some old shoreline structures in search of restrooms and refreshments, we proceeded to the transit stop to await our next bus to Horseshoe Bay. We had close to a half an hour wait since the bus intervals grow as the Bermuda afternoons lengthens and it appeared we had just missed the earlier bus on the route.

The bustrip from the Hamilton port to Horseshoe Bay was quite long , following a windy circle route through narrow streets lined in tropical trees and pretty pastel coloured houses with tiered white roofs. We knew were were getting close to our beach destination when saw a Canada flag flying at a large resort hotel (which we deduced was the Fairmount). We exited at a bus-stop at the top of a steep hill that you must descend on foot to reach the beach. We arrived at the beach just before 5 which seemed to be ideal and the sands were not overcrowded and the sun’s heat was receding. All of us, hot and tired from our trip were soon splashing about in the surf, having fun jumping the waves crashing on the shoreline. Unfortunately we had only an hour to enjoy the beach (the downside of having a busy whirlwind itinerary on a single day in port) and soon had to towel off in time to catch the final bus of the day back to Hamilton.

We were happy to find another option to our feet for ascending the hill. An industrious businessman was selling positions in his 12 seater van to shuttle beach visitors back up the hill for a buck a piece (quite a lucrative business, given that its only 1 minute up). All of us (with the exception of trooper Gary who wanted to prove his mettle by walking up) parted with a buck for the service. Once at the top we were dismayed to find a huge crowd waiting at the bus-stop. We joined the queue, fretting about whether there would be sufficient room in the bus to take us all back or whether we would have to call a taxi. Fortunately the bus arrived relatively empty and everyone at the stop was able to fit, although some of us were forced to stand for most of the long ride back. We had to exit the bus at a bus terminal next to City Hall to catch the bus back to St. George. There was a huge throng waiting on the platform for buses. Two buses were St George bound (the #10 and #11) . We had a 45 minute wait for the second bus, but fortunately we were toward the front of the line and all got seats.

Back on board the Majesty, we decided to try the Four Seasons dining room for a change of scenery. It is a smaller dining room and our table assignment was located fine. We ordered a bottle of red wine with dinner. Dessert selections were again unimpressive, as was the bread basket selection (bread was also stale). Following dinner we went to the Liars Club gameshow in the Palace Theatre where four celebrity panellists (including John-- the cruise director, the ship’s firefighter and two guest entertainers) defined four mystery words. It was quite amusing (and at times quite risqué, definitely not for young children). Following the gameshow we headed to the chocolate buffet, set up in the Seven seas dining room and featuring a selection of chocolate desserts, including freshly dipped fruit. Then it was back to our staterooms for a well deserved sleep.

More to come…

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